British designer Craig Green has always been known for being especially cutting edge. From his cotton-polypropylene blend shirts to this season’s strapped and belted tops, his designs are universally eye-catching and provocative. For Fall/Winter 2016, he has rolled out a campaign that matches that spirit, pushing the boundaries yet again in terms of clothing and presentation.
For the upcoming season, Green shot his campaign entirely by drone. Unlike most hobbyists, however, who use a front-facing camera on their drones, Green opted for a top-down perspective for his shoot. In each shot there are five models, all wearing the same outfit (the colors of the outfits vary in some of the photos). The models are situated on top of or around each other and are lying, as if dead or sleeping, on an expanse of black sand. There are six images in total, but the campaign also features videos in which the sand is a normal color and the shot zooms out from above.
The actual garments in the Fall/Winter 2016 collection — the theme of which is “protection” — are remarkably varied, but they all embody Green’s vision creatively and beautifully. A good number of the outfits incorporate tightly secured drawstring hoods and straps on clothing that, otherwise, drapes quite freely but covers almost the entire body. The effect is a sort of disruptive constriction that conveys a sense of excess, or, more accurately, overprotection. Other looks operate on the opposite end of the spectrum, and are comprised of scant leather panels bound loosely with excessive lengths of white ribbon. These leave much skin exposed, but the panels are reminiscent of leather armor worn in antiquity. This duality incorporating both protection and exposure demonstrates Green’s talent for tackling contradictory ideas while still creating cohesive fits.
Similar contradictions exist in the composition of Green’s campaign shots as well. A drone flying over bodies in a sandy locale is almost certainly deliberate imagery reminiscent of the drone attacks that tragically kill civilians in the Middle East, but then why are the outfits so military-inspired? Additionally, the fact that the outfits that appeared on the runway are pictured in the dirt also evokes an interesting tension. There is also, of course, the obvious incongruity between the idea of protection and piles of models slumped over each other, as if sleeping, in a desert. That is Green’s game: toying with the absurd, transforming it, and showcasing it.
How do you feel about Green’s new campaign? Leave a comment below or on Twitter @BillChangNY